Text: Anna Voulgari
Photos: Anna Voulgari, Antonis Sassalos, Chrisoula Grammatikopoulou, Olga Karagianni

English translation: Dimitra Pappa

On Saturday that wasn’t May Day, yet May had already counted three days, following the celebration hosted by the Livadia Association, we set off to walk Circular Route 17. The weather had shifted—strong winds and clouds had cleared away, and a brilliant sun now lit up Andros.

Livadia is built at the foot of Mount Gerakonas—or simply “the mountain,” as we locals call it. Similarly, the stream officially named “Megalos Potamos” (Great River) is, to us, just “the river.” Sometimes, the most obvious things need no embellishment.

Livadia is located very close to Chora. Before Andros became a single municipality, Livadia—along with Vrachnou and of course Chora—formed the Municipality of Andros. Where the valley begins to open, there are so many citrus orchards (locally called baxedes) that it’s no exaggeration to say: Livadia equals orchards.

We chose to walk Route No. 17 in a slightly unorthodox way compared to its official waymarking. We did this to stay closer to the celebration and, at the same time, to experience the trail from a more local perspective. Altogether, we walked about seven peaceful kilometers, with minimal elevation change.

Usually, for safety reasons—especially on high mountain trails—we limit group size to 30–35 participants. But on Route 17, the restrictions were relaxed, as much of the trail runs through settlements. As a result, 52 people joined us!

We started at the river, near Livadia Park. Heading west, we soon entered a narrow lane between citrus orchards. This is the settlement of Mesa Chorio (Middle Village), with houses tucked among the trees. We climbed a long concrete staircase and turned left at the top. From the small chapel of Agios Eleftherios, we saw the Monastery of Panachrantou in the distance.

Along the way, we passed two fountains in the distinct 1960s style—vital at the time when homes had no running water, and families carried it in clay jugs. From Mesa Chorio, many paths connect the orchards of Livadia to the village of Messaria. This is also where the irrigation channels from Menites end, watering the citrus groves. Before they were replaced by plastic pipes, the sound of running water filled the village.

After Agios Eleftherios, the path became downhill. Stone steps led us into a lush ravine, where we found another fountain. Just before the chapel of Taxiarchis, we came to the Vrysari spring. There, we turned left into the beautifully maintained orchard of Athina and Sakis Antonopoulos. We crossed it and reached the river again, heading east toward the settlement of Kato Chorio (Lower Village).

We followed a narrow path between orchards, climbed a steep cobbled staircase, and arrived at a dirt trail lined with oak trees. In autumn, the area fills with cyclamen—a truly magical sight! This oak path brought us into Kato Chorio. At the highest point of the village, where the fountain stands, we enjoyed a stunning view of a cypress grove—a small forest stretching all the way to the sea and Paraporti Beach. To the right, we saw the village of Vrachnou hanging on the cliffs, and directly opposite, Pano Chorio (Upper Village) of Livadia.

We descended and returned to the river, close to where we started. We walked a short section of the Chora–Korthi road and stopped at the parish church of Agios Konstantinos for a snack break.

We continued briefly along the road, passed under the former primary school, and turned left onto a downhill path with many steps, leading us to the Vrachnou waterfall ravine. At a small concrete bridge, we could clearly see the special dry-stone construction along the riverbanks—designed to withstand the water’s pressure. This vertical stonework technique is locally called bastouni.

We crossed Kalovolos—the only flat street in Pera Chorio—and admired an old mansion with ornate ironwork. From there, we descended another stairway leading back to the river, near the church of the Holy Apostles. From this point on, the trail is flat. Some say the riverside path from Chora to Livadia—and back—is among the most beautiful on the island. It’s certainly a rejuvenating trail, ideal for people with mobility challenges or for those seeking light exercise.

We crossed the wooden bridge and turned left until we reached the grassy plain called “Abyssos.” This area gathers all the valley’s waters, and here lies the municipal well that sends thousands of liters daily to Chora’s reservoir. “Abyssos” is aptly named: vast, bottomless, immeasurable.

Along the Abyssos trail, we passed several iconic orchards. The initials on the grand gates reflect the prosperity of bygone times—especially the Kampanis orchard (also known as the Manitari estate), with its towering stone wall. From the wooden bridge to the ruined stone one, there are several small alternative routes.

What remains of the once-elegant triple-arched stone bridge now stands amid cypress trees on the riverbed. In recent years, the river has had little or no water. Until as recently as 2019, it still flowed even in the height of summer. Take note of the wedged vertical stones in the two large bastounia on either side of the bridge.

As summer approaches, the oleanders (ntourafes) in the riverbed will begin to bloom. When nature dons its dusty summer grey, the vibrant flowers will provide the final stroke of color in the season of wonders—Greek summer!

But before those summer “miracles”, our final stop was at the celebration hosted by the Livadia Association under the plane trees in the village park—a truly delicious and delightful gathering.

Thank you to everyone who joined us. We hope you enjoyed it! The waymarked routes of Andros Routes are many, all described in detail on our website: www.androsroutes.gr

But the real joy for a hiker lies in discovering hidden corners and little gems in every area. Where the signs and instructions end, the real journey begins—through your own eyes and soul.

We look forward to seeing you on our next hike!

Route No. 18: Livadia – Vrachnou – Prophet Daniel – Petrias – Falika – Aladino.

Once again nearby—but this time, higher up… on the mountain!

📌 See details here